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Marrakech is quite unique
and for the first time visitor I strongly recommend that you
dive into the dazzling whirlwind as soon as possible.
Undoubtedly the best way to absorb the atmosphere is to wander
down to the main square or Jemaa el Fna. Take up a position on
one of the restaurant balconies, which over look the square
and simply watch one of the worlds, greatest shows unfold.
By day the square is
busy with fresh orange juice vendors, stalls which stack
pyramids of dates and nuts, snake charmers, boot cleaners,
dentists with their trays of pulled teeth, henna tatooists and
healers with an assortment of potions, some living some not!
But as the sun begins to set, the hot food stalls are set up
and their lamps lit, shouts are heard encouraging the crowds
to try the different specialities on offer such as sheeps
cheek, brochettes of lamb, harira soup and of course couscous.
By mid evening the crowds have really begun to gather and are
entranced in the spectacle of musicians, dancers and
storytellers. There is no let up until midnight when the
stalls begin to pack up ready to return the following night.
The most remarkable
thing about the Jemaa el Fna is that the revelry hasn’t
changed in hundreds of years. This was where the tribes from
the desert came to trade with the merchants of Europe and the
Marrekechies provided every possible way in which to get the
travellers to part with the money in their pockets. Tourists
have now replaced the traders but the concept is still the
same!
There is plenty to keep
you occupied in Marrakech but a couple of day trips outside
the city are well worth considering. Essaouria on the coast is
a pretty fishing port, with its white washed buildings and
blue shutters, it reminded me so much of the Greek islands.
Wander down to the port at sunset and choose your seafood from
the wonderful selection available, dinner should cost no more
than £5. The Atlas Mountains are a dominant feature of
Marrakech, constantly covered in snow they provide a stunning
backdrop to the city. A day trip is a fabulous way to
appreciate the incredible scenery and life of the Berber
villagers.
But if time is short,
Marrakech will provide a constant source of entertainment. The
souk is one of the best in the country and will easily consume
a day of wandering through its sun dappled allies and
bargaining for crafts and goodies, but be sure to bargain hard
as the traders enjoy a good banter.
If you desire a real
Moroccan experience then you simply must stay in a Riahd, a
traditional house once owned by wealthy traders they have been
lovingly restored. Heavy ornate doors conceal beautiful
courtyards with colourful mosaics, flowering bougenvillia and
pools of water scattered with petals. The bedrooms lead from
the courtyard and with original architecture and authentic
furniture they provide an oasis of calm.
Having received several
warnings by friends to take care with the local food, water
and even the local men, I am delighted to report that it is an
incredibly warm and friendly country. Guide books describe
Morocco as ‘A country of contrasts’, I wasn’t sure if
this was going to be just tourist board jargon but I soon
realised that Morocco was a country that words could not
adequately capture.
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