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Mention to people that you are visiting Tuscany and they all
wax lyrical about the delights of Sienna, the fabulous art of
Florence and the ancient Manhattan style skyline of San
Gimignano. But for someone who was more at homes with a
back pack and travel in the third world, I wanted to see parts
of Tuscany that were far less touristy...more off the beaten
track. Scouring my guidebook I concentrated on the towns
and villages that were described in a mere fifty words or
less. Theses were the types of places that would attract
fewer tourists and therefore attract me.
First stop on my less visited list was Colle di Val d'Elsa,
just a short drive from San Gimignano where most people
immediately head. Ignoring the newer part of town,
instead I headed for the delightful village perched on top of
the hill. Here I wandered the narrow labyrinth of
alleyways , where colourful flowers grew from pots and window
boxes, finally emerging at a vantage point with sweeping
views.
The village is well known for its glassware, which originate
from the Middle Ages and there were several shops selling this
and ceramic ware cheaper than in the bigger towns.
Having worked up a thirst I stopped at the town square, shaded
by ancient trees, for a coffee and watched village life going
about its daily business despite the few tourists who had
invaded their space. Old men, complete with black caps
and braces sat outside the cafe in a row of well torn chairs
and talked animatedly about...well whatever!
San Gimignano is famous as one of Tuscany's perfectly
preserved medieval villages but Monteriggioni is smaller, less
well known but magnificently preserved Originally constructed
in the 13th century, Monteriggioni sits like a crown proudly
placed on top of a hill, surrounded by olive groves.
Built as a fortress to protect Sienna, the wall and its 14
towers are still in excellent condition and worth the steep
walk to the entrance. Inside the gate there is a large
main square where I treated myself to an ice cream to cool
down. It seems like everywhere you go in Tuscany there
is always the temptation of delicious ice cream in 101
different flavours!
Apart from a small church, restaurant and a couple of shops
there is also a very good 4* hotel for those looking for
something quiet. The view was stunning across the flat
plains below to San Gimignano in the distance.
But my favourite place of all was Volterra, located in an
out-of-the-way hill top position in an unusual volcanic
landscape, in total contrast to the typical Tuscan
countryside. Being off the main tourist routes it seems
very few visitors but those who make the effort will be
enchanted, as I was, with this town. It was easy to
spend a day just wandering and taking in the atmosphere of the
town's medieval buildings, narrow cobbled streets, dusty old
shops, the main piazzas, galleries, archaeological museum and
a cathedral built in 1120.
I enjoyed a long lunch of typical Tuscan fare, pasta with hare
sauce and wild boar all washed down with local wine and at
half the price of the tourist towns.
As I walked back to my car a couple who had just got married
began their journey of life together by walking through the
town where friends and relatives wishes them well. Obviously
an old Italian custom, which I felt fortunate to have seen and
only one of the many rewards of going 'off the beaten track'.
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