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Mention
to people that you are visiting Tuscany and they all
wax lyrical about the delights of Sienna, the fabulous
art of Florence and the ancient Manhattan style skyline
of San Gimignano. But for someone who was more at
homes with a back pack and travel in the third world,
I wanted to see parts of Tuscany that were far less
touristy...more off the beaten track. Scouring my
guidebook I concentrated on the towns and villages
that were described in a mere fifty words or less.
Theses were the types of places that would attract
fewer tourists and therefore attract me.
First
stop on my less visited list was Colle di Val d'Elsa,
just a short drive from San Gimignano where most people
immediately head. Ignoring the newer part of town,
instead I headed for the delightful village perched
on top of the hill. Here I wandered the narrow labyrinth
of alleyways , where colourful flowers grew from pots
and window boxes, finally emerging at a vantage point
with sweeping views.
The
village is well known for its glassware, which originate
from the Middle Ages and there were several shops
selling this and ceramic ware cheaper than in the
bigger towns.
Having
worked up a thirst I stopped at the town square, shaded
by ancient trees, for a coffee and watched village
life going about its daily business despite the few
tourists who had invaded their space. Old men, complete
with black caps and braces sat outside the cafe in
a row of well torn chairs and talked animatedly about...well
whatever!
San
Gimignano is famous as one of Tuscany's perfectly
preserved medieval villages but Monteriggioni is smaller,
less well known but magnificently preserved Originally
constructed in the 13th century, Monteriggioni sits
like a crown proudly placed on top of a hill, surrounded
by olive groves. Built as a fortress to protect Sienna,
the wall and its 14 towers are still in excellent
condition and worth the steep walk to the entrance.
Inside the gate there is a large main square where
I treated myself to an ice cream to cool down. It
seems like everywhere you go in Tuscany there is always
the temptation of delicious ice cream in 101 different
flavours!
Apart
from a small church, restaurant and a couple of shops
there is also a very good 4* hotel for those looking
for something quiet. The view was stunning across
the flat plains below to San Gimignano in the distance.
But
my favourite place of all was Volterra, located in
an out-of-the-way hill top position in an unusual
volcanic landscape, in total contrast to the typical
Tuscan countryside. Being off the main tourist routes
it seems very few visitors but those who make the
effort will be enchanted, as I was, with this town.
It was easy to spend a day just wandering and taking
in the atmosphere of the town's medieval buildings,
narrow cobbled streets, dusty old shops, the main
piazzas, galleries, archaeological museum and a cathedral
built in 1120.
I
enjoyed a long lunch of typical Tuscan fare, pasta
with hare sauce and wild boar all washed down with
local wine and at half the price of the tourist towns.
As
I walked back to my car a couple who had just got
married began their journey of life together by walking
through the town where friends and relatives wishes
them well. Obviously an old Italian custom, which
I felt fortunate to have seen and only one of the
many rewards of going 'off the beaten track'.
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