Mention to people that you are visiting Tuscany and they all
wax lyrical about the delights of Sienna, the fabulous art
of Florence and the ancient Manhattan style skyline of San
Gimignano. But for someone who was more at homes with a back
pack and travel in the third world, I wanted to see parts
of Tuscany that were far less touristy...more off the beaten
track. Scouring my guidebook I concentrated on the towns and
villages that were described in a mere fifty words or less.
Theses were the types of places that would attract fewer tourists
and therefore attract me.
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First
stop on my less visited list was Colle di Val d'Elsa,
just a short drive from San Gimignano where most people
immediately head. Ignoring the newer part of town, instead
I headed for the delightful village perched on top of
the hill. Here I wandered the narrow labyrinth of alleyways
, where colourful flowers grew from pots and window
boxes, finally emerging at a vantage point with sweeping
views. |
The
village is well known for its glassware, which originate
from the Middle Ages and there were several shops selling
this and ceramic ware cheaper than in the bigger towns.
Having
worked up a thirst I stopped at the town square, shaded
by ancient trees, for a coffee and watched village life
going about its daily business despite the few tourists
who had invaded their space. Old men, complete with black
caps and braces sat outside the cafe in a row of well torn
chairs and talked animatedly about...well whatever!
| San
Gimignano is famous as one of Tuscany's perfectly preserved
medieval villages but Monteriggioni is smaller, less
well known but magnificently preserved Originally constructed
in the 13th century, Monteriggioni sits like a crown
proudly placed on top of a hill, surrounded by olive
groves. Built as a fortress to protect Sienna, the wall
and its 14 towers are still in excellent condition and
worth the steep walk to the entrance. Inside the gate
there is a large main square where I treated myself
to an ice cream to cool down. It seems like everywhere
you go in Tuscany there is always the temptation of
delicious ice cream in 101 different flavours! |
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Apart
from a small church, restaurant and a couple of shops there
is also a very good 4* hotel for those looking for something
quiet. The view was stunning across the flat plains below
to San Gimignano in the distance.
But
my favourite place of all was Volterra, located in an out-of-the-way
hill top position in an unusual volcanic landscape, in total
contrast to the typical Tuscan countryside. Being off the
main tourist routes it seems very few visitors but those
who make the effort will be enchanted, as I was, with this
town. It was easy to spend a day just wandering and taking
in the atmosphere of the town's medieval buildings, narrow
cobbled streets, dusty old shops, the main piazzas, galleries,
archaeological museum and a cathedral built in 1120.
I
enjoyed a long lunch of typical Tuscan fare, pasta with
hare sauce and wild boar all washed down with local wine
and at half the price of the tourist towns.
As
I walked back to my car a couple who had just got married
began their journey of life together by walking through
the town where friends and relatives wishes them well. Obviously
an old Italian custom, which I felt fortunate to have seen
and only one of the many rewards of going 'off the beaten
track'.
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